Mariachis, play your guitars and trumpets! Telemundo announcers, announce: “fantástico, espectacular!”: We are in Mexico!
I’ve wanted to come to this multicolored land for a long time. I grew up watching telenovelas and listening to rancheras from my uncles’ stereos. Later came the films. And then I moved to Washington state, where 15% of the population is Latino and the majority of which, Mexican. I’ve learned to admire these people that have taught the güeros to order tacos and enchiladas en español, even in the least pro-immigrant towns.
Continental Mexico began for us in Mazatlan, with a pink sunset and waves post-hurricane size. While we looked for a hotel, Nate had his first experience being pulled over by a cop. He let Nate go. It only happens to him.
We headed east to the Santa María del Oro lagoon, a crater filled with water adored and shared by the Indians through an ejido, a type of community property. But the land around it was bought out and parceled into weekend houses. Supposedly they couldn’t build right next to the water. That changed too, perhaps with a check. Nate inflated the boat and we rowed, swam and tried to fish. We heard many types of birds and saw fireflies and a poor toad with ticks. Benjamin thought Ticks on a Toad would be a good band name. We tried fish chicharrón and shrimp empanadas, both delicious.
It was about the time we crossed the beautiful agave fields surrounding Tequila, Magdalena and El Arenal, that we realized that the time to travel between points A and B is a lot longer than everyone says, including Google. We almost couldn’t find a hotel before nightfall!
We finally arrived to Guadalajara. Juan and Gaby are two of the best tour guides I’ve known. I would need another brain to remember all the facts they told us about their country. In two days they showed us the dance of the Papantla flying men from Veracruz; took us to the Guachimontones pyramids and to Tlaquepaque, a cobblestone road with artisan stands (a dream!) and art galleries; and shared food. We tried huitlacoche, a mushroom that grows on corn that would probably be tossed in other places, but here is a delicacy; pulque, a fermented prehispanic drink made out of corn; and elote (corn) ice cream. Corn! They consume it all day long! Monsanto’s gotta leave this magic grain alone.
Veracruz Flying Men from Nate Brown on Vimeo.
Guanajuato has been our favorite town so far. It would have been one of the white towns of Andalucia if it hadn’t been painted a hundred bright Latino colors. It is just that though: a colonial town injected with all the Mexican revolutionary passion. It’s a labyrinth, a crazy cluster of houses hanging from the hills thanks just to the Virgin of Guadalupe. Benjamin said it well: “Nothing like cramped living conditions and colorful, unsafe buildings to make a city beautiful.” Guanajuato is a town with mining origins and social contradictions still visible today, from the richness of Santa Cecilia Castle to the shacks built to fit the geography.
Lucky us, we were in Guanajuato during the celebration of the Independence. Lucky because it was here where the rebels began the liberation from the Spanish crown in 1810. So while the Viva Mexico celebration is huge all over this nationalist country, it is gigantic here.
We were also lucky to meet and chat with fellow travelers, whom we almost consider celebrities because we have read their blog, twowheelednomad.com. With them we ate street food — churros, elote and enchiladas mineras. After the locals, joined by Amelia, finished the celebration by spraying espuma (foam), the dogs kept partying away. I swear there is one per human habitant.
Beautiful and colorful San Miguel de Allende and Querétaro are absolutely worth visiting… but perhaps without kids. What the two kids of the Tangletown4 found to be the most interesting? The nieves (traditional ice cream), tamales and the dressed up donkey ready for the tourists. To them, another colonial town with a basilica is one town too many. We were surprised by images of Indians next to Catholic churches, which we will see repeating from now on. Converting land previously owned by small farmers (or Indians) into natural reserves, only to sell them 10 years later as “sustainable” development seems to be theme, too. We were once again amazed by the hospitality of our new friends, Gisella, Jhon Alexander, Laura and Juan.
We ended this segment with an “only 3.5 hour” road trip (meaning 7 hours) to Las Pozas, Edward James’ secret garden in Xilitla, San Luis Potosi.
The drive to Xilitla (sounds like hail-hitler in a British accent, which freaks N out) was one of the best so far. Crazy, yes, and also so very diverse. We crossed through semi desert, desert, evergreen pine forest, rocky plains and mini jungle. We saw shepherds (all women) with their sheep, steep canyons, donkeys, street dogs everywhere and a ton of lovely little old ladies. We met Li, an ex-trucker who lived in the U.S. 18 years and is now an apple winemaker. And we confirmed an important fact: Mexico has the most tire repair shops in the world. Research it and see.
Nate has begun a new tradition of translating road signs his way. “Respete los límites de velocidad” becomes “Respect the limits of velocity” and “Reduzca la velocidad. Cruce de peatones” is “Reduce your velocity. Crossing peanuts.”
Nine hours later (with an overnight camping in between) we arrived in DF. We really began arriving two hours before we actually did. It’s hill after hill of cinderblock, of colorful squared houses. The pink paint was on sale for sure.
A year won’t be enough. I already know that we must come back to this explosion of flavors, smells and colors called Mexico… next time maybe to stay.
So good to hear from you. I can smell the smells, see the colors, taste and flavors as you write. I would come visit you in Mexico!
And again – I feel like I’m living it through your words and photos. The surrealistic art in the jungle is awesome. The descriptions of the towns amazing. And I can easily see you returning…to stay… and to have visitors like me come abide awhile with you. BTW – just what was it that the cop stopped Nate for? Inquiring minds…. K
Hey Kathi! I was parked the wrong way on a one-way street in Mazatlan. The cop took my license and registration and told me to pick them up at the station, but returned it after I told him I was leaving the next day. Phew!
I’m still listening to the birds!! How pretty! Driving every inch of the way on this trip you sure get the sights, sounds, smells, all those little things that make the country what it is and you would miss flying. Wow! The pictures are wonderful! Love traveling with you!
I am LOVING these posts. The descriptions, photos, and sounds are an oasis. SO thrilled to be a voyeur while you are on your journey. Safe Travels!
So fun to hear your stories…hearing you reflect on it all takes me back to some of my old adventurous days! Watch out for those crossing peanuts!