Colombia’s exit was quick and easy. Ecuador’s entering was slow and boring. I guess Ecuador was not too psyched with us coming in. The power had gone out just as an Aduana official was entering our information. We would have needed just a couple more minutes to finish. Instead, we waited 5 or 6 hours for the power to come back. We finally left around 9 p.m. Nate drove while Benjamin and mom shifted on being the navigator. Mom found a nice campsite called Sommerwind, with hot showers and WiFi.

The next morning I explored the campsite. There were lots of dogs, a kitchen, a mini-library, and a ‘hangout’ space. That was our lazy day. I watched shows, and so did Ben. Mom and Nate did whatever they call fun. After waking up, mom told me that it would be a school day. As we did that, we noticed a tall white camper entering the site. One of the two front doors opened and two kids popped out. Mom was truly excited with this. In case you didn’t know, she has a soft spot for travelers. But travelers with kids… even better. After a while of doing homework, I was invited to play tag. Mom and Nate joined.

Alexa, the 5-year-old kid, her brother Sven and I played hide-and-go-seek. Then I had the idea to dye cotton. We gathered our materials for several hours and then finally chose our colors to begin. First, we choose green leafs and added some yellow petals. We plopped the ingredients into a pot and poured water in too, so that we could boil it. It worked, but not as expected. The color was more of a booger’s than anything else. We tried again with only purple flowers. It worked beautifully.

The supplies to dye cotton. Photo: V

The supplies to dye cotton. Photo: V

We slept at a nice campsite and then left to visit the Otavalo market. I ended up buying an indigenous necklace, Nate bought a hat, and Mom bought a mini-llama. Then we took of for the Middle of the World. We learned that the Europeans based the world map on an Egyptian who based his map on a star that moves every hundred thousand years, that’s why that map is incorrect because it moves. The scientist in Ecuador made the map based on the sun because the sun doesn’t move.

The Ecuator! Photo: Amelia

The Ecuator! Photo: Amelia

In Quito, Mom found a place to camp. In a parking lot. At some park in the middle of the city. We couldn’t cook in a parking lot so we went to a mall instead. We hadn’t been to a mall since we left the U.S. I ate fake Italian food, Nate and Mom ate fake Indian wraps, and Benjamin ate at Burger King (which ended up being a horrible choice because he was rather…. windy that night).

While in Quito, Nate realized one thing he absolutely hated: you cannot do left turns in that city. None. We were looking for a Mercedes repair shop to buy a fuel filter. We couldn’t find the filter. We gave up and found an expensive Mexican restaurant instead. Nate was fed up with the city, with the no left turns and the expensive food, so we went towards hot springs in the mountain. Once we got there we immediately got into the practically boiling water. We told stories and talked about famous -dead- actresses, actors, and models along with TV shows, too. That night I made dinner. Nate helped with the boiling water and supervision so I wouldn’t burn any pasta (or myself). In the mean time we watched owls dive up and down, catching moths. It was a good night.

Volcanoes all around in Ecuador! Photo: V

Volcanoes all around in Ecuador! Photo: V

We had decided to go to the jungle. We got to a town called Misahualli. We drove to the town’s plaza were we rolled down the windows and looked around from the car. And then we saw them: monkeys walking all around and climbing in the trees. They were everywhere. It was something we had never seen before. We had seen monkeys but never in a plaza! After getting past the shock we went to our camping spot, Banana Lodge. Nate parked and I dressed into my bathing suit and grabbed a towel. Benjamin followed me down the slippery steps. There, a river flowed threw. I jumped in once Nate got there. Then Benjamin, and then Nate, then Mom. It was chilly but oh so incredibly nice on that hot, hot, humid day. We swam until it was almost dark.

We went for a hike at the Jatun Sacha research station. The four of us plus our guide, Michael, walked through secondary forest to a viewing point, which was a tall tower. Michael strapped us into harnesses and then asked who was going to go first. I volunteered.

The only animal we saw on our hike. Photo: Nate

The only animal we saw on our hike. Photo: Nate

The rails wobbled a bit and the bugs wouldn’t stop trying to get into my ears. Finally I had made it to the top. I was taller than all the trees and all the hills. It was amazing. Mom came after me but stopped just before the top. Then Nate. We took in the view and then I went back down.  We continued the loop of our hike and got back to Cosmo.

Momma doing the climb! Photo: Nate

Momma doing the climb!
Photo: Nate

The view from the top of the tower. Photo: Nate

The view from the top of the tower. Photo: Nate

When we were back at Banana Lodge, a family looked at our van. They walked over to us and asked us where we were from. We learned that they were from Washington too and were now living in Quito. Then we all changed into our swimming suits and jumped into the river. Nate brought the fishing gear, and Benjamin joined him.

The next morning I woke up and found Benjamin lying in Mom and Nate’s bed. As it turns out, he had gotten sick in the middle of the night. He stayed sick for a long time. We ended up leaving Misahualli that day.

On our way back to the mountains, we found a monkey reserve! Ben stayed in Cosmo but the rest of us went in. They handed us bananas (not for the monkeys) and let us explore. We saw several cute animals but what actually caught our eyes were two baby monkeys! One was a spider monkey that had been born two days ago. The momma was still bleeding and the other female monkey in the cage was eating the blood. As mom put it when we were both disgusted, ‘This isn’t Animal Planet which only shows the cute babies and not the reality.’ The other baby was a white-faced capuchin monkey that had been born on Dec. 25, which made him a Christmas monkey.

The christmas monkey, white-faced cappuchin. Photo: Amelia

The christmas monkey, white-faced cappuchin. Photo: Amelia

Born two days before, the spider monkey. Photo: Nate

Born two days before, the spider monkey. Photo: Nate

We were on the road again to a place called Pequeño Paraiso, run by a woman named Sue. Sue’s place had little cabins, bathrooms for campers, WiFi, and four very excited dogs. We stayed there several nights and met people from all over. There was Olaf, a guy from Germany. There was a Colombian and Brazilian couple. There was Brent who was Canadian. And there were also Gustavo, the one-eye dog, Tasha, the leader of the four, Rita the one with wirehair, and Pinga, who is bigger than the others but is scared of them anyways.

The first couple of days were about relaxing and some schoolwork. The next day we went to Pailón del Diablo waterfall. It was a walk down and a hike up. But other than that it was beautiful. The waterfall was strong and to get right next to it, you had to duck down and climb through this cave/hall that was going upwards. It was super cool.

The stairs of the waterfall. Photo: V

The stairs of the waterfall. Photo: V

From Río Verde, we took the long road to Cuenca. Nate got sick on the way, so we decided to find a hostel. One of the best things of Cuenca was the zoo. It looked new and was amazing. This zoo had chicken wire for most of the animal cages and so the animals were so close that you could touch them (but you are not supposed to). All the animals were rescued, too.

This is the size of the Andian Condor Photo: Nate

This is the size of the Andian Condor Photo: Nate

That chicken is a goner. Photo: Nate

That chicken is a goner. Photo: Nate

That night we ate at a place called Pizzalacqua. It was very good; the only thing that could be better is the crust – a little too hard. The owner, Ugo, was Colombian-Italian, and super nice! On our way out of town the next morning we stopped by to take a picture with Ugo. He had brought his family, who were all very nice. They gave us a free pizza and loaf of bread!!!

The beautiful decorations at Pizzalacqua! Photo: Nate

The beautiful decorations at Pizzalacqua! Photo: Nate

Between Cuenca and Loja, we stopped at Comunidad Las Lagunas in Saraguro, where we had a very good breakfast with an indigenous family. They made mote, roasted vegetables, mini potatoes, plums and lemongrass tea, everything from their farm.

At Potocarpus National Park, we met Katie and Greg. Katie and I talked about her students back in Tennessee, where she was a high school teacher. We also made Pan Cakes. Greg and Nate traded movies. And we went for a hike.

A vine of orchids hanging lazily of a tree. Photo: Amelia

A vine of orchids hanging lazily of a tree. Photo: Amelia

A trogon sitting on a branch. Photo: Amelia

A trogon sitting on a branch. Photo: Amelia

Then Benjamin was going to do math when he realized that he didn’t have his math book. We left Potocarpus to find a place with Internet. Turns out, Benjamin had left his book in Rio Verde. All the way back at Sue’s place! So, Mom being a wonderful mom, and Nate being so very kind and generous, drove back to Rio Verde. It was an eleven-hour drive.

The next morning we left Sue’s place and continued back on the road. In the middle the drive, Mom asked Benjamin if he had remembered to get the shampoo and conditioner from the bathroom. Nope! He had forgotten two towels, too! This time we didn’t go back.

Share this Post:
Share on FacebookTweet about this on TwitterShare on Google+Email this to someone
Showing 4 comments
  • wayne
    Reply

    Amelia, you are a terrific tour guide. I loved every trail, view and human and animal interaction you had in Equador. Happy times in Peru.

  • Katharine
    Reply

    Great storytelling A. Loved the photos too. Miss u all xoxoxo

  • Katie
    Reply

    Loved this! I used to try to make dye and perfumes with various stuff I found in my backyard…NEVER worked. I’ll have to find some of those purple flowers! Let us know if you have any successful Pan Cake attempts. And Benjamin, you’re in good company with forgetting the soap and shampoo. We know all about that. Happens to the best of us!

  • Kathi
    Reply

    What a travelogue! I’ve never successfully made dye that really worked … maybe once you’re back you can teach me. Rhododendron flowers anyone? or Lavender? Love reading the details in your stories -makes me feel like I’m there for a few moments. I’m not surprised you volunteered to be the first one up the ladder to the lookout – you’re always ready for the next wonderful adventure! Keep the stories coming – they’re wonderful! K

Leave a Comment