(Part 2 of 2 – Panama to Colombia)

This journey has had many meanings. The celebration of my first 40. The coming of age of Benjamín and Amelia. Roots and wings. A semicolon in my career; a period in Nate’s. Maybe even a time to finish my thesis −if the road gods allow it. Coming home.

It doesn’t seem like a coincidence then that the return to my land would have began with a visit to my first guy friend. Esteban and I became friends when we were Amelia’s age and we began writing to each other since we were Benjamin’s age. (Our friendship has been long distance ever since). As a welcome gift, he gave me all the letters I have written to him since 1990.

Esteban and his family, Marcela, María José (4), Juan Manuel (1.5) and Rochi, greeted us with open doors. They showed us their beloved Barranquilla, the one they enjoy inside in the comfort of AC and the one they bear outside, with a handkerchief to wipe their sweat.

The kids. Photo by Esteban

The kids. Photo by Esteban

Besides sharing wonderful meals and conversations, they took us to see the Magdalena river, Colombia’s largest; and the Museo del Caribe, definitely a highlight. We learned about the afrocolombian, indigenous and white cultures, and all the mixes that have occurred between them. About their food, languages and music. Man, their music − cumbia, vallenato, gaita, son, merecumbé, currulao, porro, puya…

At the Museo del Caribe. Photo by Esteban

At the Museo del Caribe. Photo by Esteban

The girls dance merecumbé. Photo by Esteban

The girls dance merecumbé. Photo by Esteban

A & B decided to go to Medellín while we picked up Cosmo and explored northern Colombia. Comfort and the spoiling of grandparents, aunts and uncles won them over.

The Tangletown 4 split for a few weeks. Photo by Esteban

The Tangletown 4 split for a few weeks. Photo by Esteban

Finally some alone time! (We're actually sad to see them go). Photo: Esteban

Finally some alone time! (We’re actually sad to see them go). Photo: Esteban

The adults use the opportunity to go out. We got to know La Troja, declared Barranquilla cultural and musical heritage site and where salsa is king. Nate learned to order a beer barranquillero style “ey, llave, una fría.” (Hey, bro, a cold one) He also discovered amazing things: the cold ones can be ordered and any little store owner will deliver them to your house! And they are less than a buck!

La Troja. Photo: Esteban

La Troja. Photo: Esteban

Listening to salsa at La Troja.  Photo by Esteban

Listening to salsa at La Troja. Photo by Esteban

Cuatro frías

Cuatro frías

From Barranquilla we went to Cartagena to get Cosmo back. Esteban came along for one day and only because he is nice; he doesn’t like the so-called Heroic City. He shares the sentiment of many Colombians who think that it is heroic only to a very few, not the majority. Equity is not a common word here. I better let Nate tell his unbiased experience.

What to say about Cartagena. It’s a large city with tall buildings, seven ports, barrios, mansions on the outskirts near the beach, docked cruise ships, a castle, and a very old city center that has been revamped a bit in the last few years. We mostly stuck to the old city and one of the ports. Old Cartagena is beautiful. A maze of narrow streets, plazas, brightly colored colonial buildings with interior patios, all surrounded by an incredibly thick wall made of stone and coral. You know, to keep the pirates out. Pirates such as Sir Francis Drake. I was taught he was a hero, but down here he’s considered a pirate.

Anyway, it’s hot. Really hot. I mean, almost Baja hot. I mean, I have a nasty bubbly heat rash on my hands – hot. So we stayed indoors much of the day when possible. But in the evening, as the sun goes down and the Caribbean breeze picks up, it’s quite magical. Really, an evening walk through the streets of Cartagena with the gentle touch of the soft sea air, the smell of arepas de queso around the corner, and the lights dancing in the night is a wonderful thing. I enjoyed our time in the “gated community”, as one of V’s brothers calls it. I can’t speak for the rest of the city. We never saw where Cartagenians actually live.

The wall surrounding old Cartagena. Photo by Nate

The wall surrounding old Cartagena. Photo by Nate

"It's too hot.  I don't want to go in."  Photo by V

“It’s too hot. I don’t want to go in.” Photo by V

I could use many metaphors to describe the recovery of Cosmo. I could say it was like waiting outside the delivery room. Or like welcoming a child after their first month in college, away from home (“he survived!”). Benjamin doesn’t like metaphors, so I will stick to the facts… and provide some commentary.

In the course of two days, we spent 13 hours of waiting, paperwork, signatures, stamps, payments, coming and going under the 92° F heat that feels like 111°F. For fellow travelers and other masochistic readers who want to know the details, here they are, step by step. Do note that my friend Esteban imports merchandise from Spain and said this is nothing in comparison to what they have to go through.

Nate and Guy waiting at the Port Authority.  Photo by V

Nate and Guy waiting at the Port Authority. Photo by V

To be quite honest, the wait was a lot more manageable thanks to our friend Guy. His sense of humor, patience, and particularly his courage and strong will to live his life his way are an inspiration. I was very, very sad to say goodbye to Guy. I hope we see him on the road again.

The excitement of seeing Cosmo after seven days was like seeing a newborn, greeting a prodigal son, or finding the keys. Or like coming back home.

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Showing 4 comments
  • Stephanie
    Reply

    You are such fantastic storytellers. Thanks for sharing your journey. I need to spend some time reading all entries…so great to travel along! Happy holidays to you! Love, s

  • Esteban
    Reply

    (I´m not very good at writing in english so I´m sorry if it sounds weird)
    Thanks a lot T4 for making us part of this great adventure…
    Thank you A, not only for playing with María José y Juan Manuel, but also for enjoying it so much! Thank you for being a great “not so little” girl!
    Thank you B for had enjoyed THAT MUCH our food, for trying to save some water and for wanted to donate your hair when you go back.
    Thank you Nate for our shared English/Spanish lessons, for all the good talks about this world and this life (not so much about music), for my new best friend Erik, for the new meaning of “una fría”, but must of all, thank you for taking so much care of my friend and making her so happy. V and I are like “soul friends”, but you can see clearly that you guys are truly soul mates.
    My dear V, thank you for making me part of this “destination” you are looking for along this year. Thank you for doing such a wonderful work with these two “characters”, for showing that Mss. Amparo did a wonderful job too. Thank you for being in a way the same friend from 29 years ago!!! (I just felt like a very old man), but must of all, thank you for being the only person I know that is really living his dream. The value of that is just huge and you are teaching a great lesson to all of us around you. See you in Seatle!

  • Lina
    Reply

    Nice to read of your aventures in La Costa, but even better to confirm that everybody who knows you, loves you.
    L

  • Wayne
    Reply

    Things in this life either take energy or create energy. I’m guessing this stop with friends along the Caribbean coast of Colombia created some energy you guys – strength for the road so to speak. Happy Travels.

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